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When assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the family completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this culinary triumph.